We took the government water ferry to the backwaters, which at Rupees 13 each, namely 15p. was an incredible bargain for a three hour journey. All life was there, with people getting on and off at the thirty stops along the way. It must be said that I had grave doubts as to the sea worthiness of the vessel, but it chugged along perfectly well and by the end of the journey the disparate groups of passengers had begun to bond, children, young backpackers, day labourers and us.
All life was there on the backwaters too, as women hung out washing, rowed themselves between houses in their little skiffs and worked in the paddy fields.
Meanwhile the men, or so it seemed to us, were responsible for running the houseboats that many tourists enjoy staying on in order to see the backwaters. Originally the houseboats were converted riceboats, as modern transportation methods had rendered these beautiful vessels redundant. It must then have been a delightful experience to drift along in the breeze, under a canopy woven from palm fronds watching the rich water life and the birds along the backwater.
Nowadays, not only are there so many houseboats that in some places it is the marine equivalent of the M25, but they have become so luxurious as to have airconditioning, generators, several bedroom cabins, viewing platforms and a large staff to cater for any and every demand of the clients. All this puts terrible pressure on the delicate ecology of these waterways. There are other causes of damage too, including the high levels of garbage, particularly plastic, and the rapid growth of the water hyacinth, a non-native plant from South America, that is gradually choking up the once freely flowing water ways.
The life of a peasant farmer in this region is not easy and the Communist party has a considerable presence in the countryside and along the backwaters. In fact Kerala has long been represented by the Communist Party in Delhi and Kerala was the first democratically elected communist government in the world and has done much to increase literacy levels, reduce infant mortality rates and improve the health of people.
Doubtless solutions will be found to retain the beauty of this unique water system and of so much else of Kerala, with its memorable land and seascapes and its fascinating cultural mix.
